Livin' La Vida Locavore

Having grown up in gatherer/gardener mode, I’m more than ready to espouse the locavore creed—all the while scoffing just a tad at the come-lately creds of many of the movement’s movers and shakers. Nevertheless, I dutifully try to make it to the Pearl farmer’s market, and others, with some regularity. It was at Pearl, for example, that I first tasted Humble House’s Camberti (and, most recently, their addictive, lemon-spiked ricotta), as well as the lamb products of Menzies Farm. (Okay, to be honest, the lamb shanks are still in the freezer, but soon, soon…)

Despite the rain—or, hoping for a reduced crowd, because of it—I managed to get there last Saturday. Many of the stands had been moved into the Full Goods dog-trot interior, but the produce vendors had been forced to tent it in the rain. In sympathy for both of us, I bought Poteet strawberries, some shelled (thank you, Jesus) English peas, a beautiful bunch of red spring onions and a generous handful of spinach. The spinach awaits consummation.

The strawberries, contrary to expectations, but understandably because of the cool and rainy weather, were an extreme disappointment; they tasted watery and wan. The Mexi-Cal versions, currently available at HEB for half the price, were twice as good. I hate to say this, but just did. The peas, on the other hand, were crisp and faultlessly fresh. Here’s what I did with them.

I took one of the large spring onion bulbs and roughly chopped it. Tossing a knob (a little more than a tablespoon) of butter into a pan, I briefly sautéed the onion, adding a little freshly ground (it goes without saying) black pepper, and, later, a healthy sprig of fresh oregano from a pot on my patio and a scattering of kosher salt. I next added the peas and about a half a cup of chicken stock I just happened to have hanging around in my freezer. On went a lid. A few minutes later (keep checking), the peas were ready, and they were fantastic. Another knob of butter might have been added for more richness, but I didn’t. Less is sometimes more, though you didn’t hear that from me.

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